Bird's eye view of the Externsteine in the Teutoburg Forest — Tourismus NRW e.V., Bird's eye view of the Externsteine, Teutoburg Forest

On the road in the Teutoburg Forest

Flying high in the land of Hermann

Have I ever been to Detmold? I don't know exactly. Probably with school. A class trip to the Hermann monument. Possibly. So it would have been a long time ago. So the anticipation is all the greater when I set off that morning on my three-day short holiday to the East Westphalian city of culture. In addition to Germany's highest monument, the legendary Externsteine are of course also on my agenda. And a hike anyway. After all, the Teutoburg Forest is considered one of the most beautiful hiking regions in North Rhine-Westphalia. Especially in autumn, when the leaves of the trees turn red-brown and the early morning mist slowly disappears. Indian summer in Westphalia.

One day, many experiences

Discover Detmold

The journey alone is worth the trip. As I'm not in a hurry, I save myself the last stretch of motorway and drive overland to Detmold. The autumnal forests soon become denser and denser. They stretch out to the left and right on the hills of the Teutoburg Forest. Somewhere behind them lies my destination. When I reach it, the first pleasant surprise awaits me. The charming Hotel Lippischer Hof, housed in a former royal mansion, is located right on the edge of the pedestrian zone in the medieval town centre. It could hardly be more central. I set off straight away. Accompanied by the words of Casanova, written in large letters on the wall of my room: "He who sleeps does not sin - he who sins beforehand, sleeps better." But a rogue who thinks evil of that ...

Anja Luckas, Residential Palace, Teutoburg Forest

Anja Luckas, Half-timbered house in Detmold, Teutoburg Forest

Anja Luckas, View from the lake of half-timbered houses in Detmold, Teutoburg Forest

Detmold is a cultural city with a long history. The guidebook promises me more than 700 monuments alone. The neo-classical town hall and the Church of the Redeemer form the centre. But the real jewel is hidden in the park behind it: the princely residence palace in the Weser Renaissance style, which is still inhabited by the princely family zur Lippe. I am lucky and can spontaneously join a guided tour through the stately walls. Bernhard VIII had it built in the mid-16th century, our small group learns as we walk through the Italian-style Red Salon, which is now used as a registry office, and the whitewashed Elisabeth Hall, which was once reserved exclusively for women. Eleven of the 120 rooms hidden behind the thick walls and the large round tower can be visited on guided tours. These include the Treasury and the Great King's Hall with room-filling tapestries in honour of Alexander the Great.

Thusnelda-Beer in the Teutoburg Forest — Anja Luckas, Thusnelda-Beer, Teutoburg Forest

One Pickert and Thusnelda, please

Tradition meets flavour

After so much history, I let myself drift a little on the way back to the hotel. I stroll through narrow alleyways along the Friedrichstal canal, in which the weeping willows are reflected. Historic half-timbered houses are lined up here, now home to small shops, bistros and cafés. I almost forget the time as dusk slowly falls. Time for dinner. Strates Brauhaus is located right in the city centre, in the second oldest half-timbered house (dating back to 1550) in the city. A babble of voices can be heard outside. It's packed this evening. Locals and tourists, business people and families are meeting up in this traditional Detmold pub. I join them and am greeted warmly by the waiter. I ask if Pickert, a kind of East Westphalian potato pancake served with liver sausage, butter and maple syrup, is just an appetiser. "Nah, you'll be full afterwards. Believe me," the waiter promises me. On top of that, there's a little beer lesson. So one Pickert, please, and the in-house Thusnelda beer. Well done. In the meantime, however, I wonder who this Thusnelda actually was. I find what I'm looking for in the flyer about the Hermann monument. She was Hermann's great love. Maybe I'll meet her tomorrow.

31,000 steps

Between the monument and the ridgeway

Day 2: I've more than earned my dinner today. In the late afternoon, my pedometer shows the impressive figure of 31,573, which I don't usually manage in five days. So to celebrate, I treat myself to something really special. Jan's Restaurant is just a few steps away from my hotel, in the Detmolder Hof. Just this spring, Jan Diekjobst was awarded a Michelin star for his culinary skills. It's just as well that I booked in good time. I get a table right by the "kitchen window" and can not only try the Lippe winter vegetables and the pink roasted saddle of venison with pumpkin and tonka bean, but can also watch the master at work.

The 3-course meal in a stylish ambience is the perfect end to an eventful day of hiking that began hours earlier in the early morning fog. So let's rewind for a moment. I'm in good spirits as I set off in the morning and let them take me to Hermann, as they call the famous monument here. The weather forecast is still good and my rucksack is packed with everything I'll need. I have food, plenty of drinks and, of course, my camera. I also take a rain jacket and hat to be on the safe side. You never know.

Hermannsdenkmal in the Teutoburg Forest — Tourismus NRW e.V., Hermannsdenkmal, Teutoburg Forest

There is still not much going on when the taxi pulls into the car park below the monument. The clock hands in the tourist information centre are just before ten, while it is still the middle of the night in New Ulm (Minnesota). A small gesture of welcome for the American guests, as the friendly lady at the counter explains to me. Because Hermann's "little brother", the Hermann Heights Monument, has been standing in the US state since 1897. But now I finally want to see the original, which, with a total height of exactly 53.46 metres, is the tallest statue in Germany and the landmark of an entire region. It took almost forty years before it was finally inaugurated in 1875 and has been one of the most popular excursion destinations in the country ever since. And not just for school groups. So have I been here before? Never mind.

Only a few families with children make their way with me first to the pedestal and then down the large flight of steps to see the image of the victorious hero of the Varus Battle in all its grandeur. He proudly stretches his long sword into the unfortunately hazy sky. Nevertheless, I naturally want to get to the top. There are 70 steps up to the dome, from where travellers can look out over the Teutoburg Forest as far as Bielefeld and Herford in good weather. At least I get an idea of the spectacular view on offer here. I'll just have to come back again.

In thoughts

On tour to the Externsteine

Meanwhile, down below, a group of young Englishmen take selfies of themselves and Arminius, who, according to legend, brought the Romans to their knees here. 9.5 kilometres and three hours later, I will see them again. Because after the descent, my real mission for the day begins: a hike on the Hermannshöhen, one of the Top Trails of Germany. I have set myself a section of stage 9, which is considered the most spectacular section of the 226-kilometre Hermann and Egge Trail. This is because it leads over the ridge of the Teutoburg Forest past the Externsteine, the 70-million-year-old rock formations that have been the subject of all kinds of myths and legends since time immemorial. That's exactly where I want to go.

So I set off, always following the white H on a black background. The paths are well-maintained, sometimes narrow, but for the most part very moderate, even for inexperienced hikers like me. I hardly notice that a light drizzle has started in the meantime. The foliage of the tall trees is too dense and the raindrops roll off. But maybe it's just the drops of sweat that occasionally drip down my forehead. The climb is steeper than I expected. Neither the one nor the other bothers me. On the contrary. Rarely have I been so far away in my thoughts as here in the midst of peace and seclusion. Rarely have I been so aware of nature as I am now, seeing toadstools in the wild for the first time ever or looking at my own footprints in the damp forest floor. Is this really me ...?

So I could claim that the journey is the destination. And it certainly is. But when the Externsteine suddenly loom up in front of me, the path is almost forgotten. I kept asking myself whether they would deliver what they promise. Yes! They do. The sight of the millions of years old, sometimes bizarre sandstone rocks, which rise up to 40 metres into the sky here, is a powerful one. Surrounded by a pond in which the autumn-coloured trees are reflected. So I can't help but overcome my fear of heights and "climb" the Externsteine via the steep steps. I don't want to miss out on this view from the top. Even though I'm glad to have "solid ground" under my feet again soon. So one last photo - I've already taken a few dozen today - and the day is slowly drawing to a close. But I still have an appointment today. And, as I said, I've really earned my dinner at Jan's Restaurant.

Eagle observatory in the Teutoburg Forest — Anja Luckas, Eagle observatory, Teutoburg Forest

Top speeds

A day among birds of prey

I have to admit, I'm not only afraid of heights, but also of birds. Or should we say: respect. So a visit to the Berlebeck Eagle Sanctuary is just the thing for the last day in Detmold. Zoo zookeeper Jonas Feist, who welcomes us to the big flight show today and immediately asks if anyone is afraid. I answer nicely. As the only one. This could be fun. Later on, the two bald eagles Donald and Lincoln fly very close to my head at lightning speed. But desert buzzard Pinkie, "our familiarisation bird", fortunately finds another hairstyle to land on. The cheering in the stands is great. The children in particular have a lot of fun when a somewhat flightless vulture prefers to walk through the rows, while their human carer has a lot to say about the life of the proud animals. For example, that the females, as the female desert buzzards are called, are bigger and have more power than the males (Terzel). Or that vultures ensure "that the world stays clean".

A total of 180 different species of birds of prey live at the Adlerwarte, including an alpine condor, a juggler and a gang of pensioners. The daily flight shows, in which the falconers encourage the animals to reach top speeds, are of course the highlight. First and foremost, however, the Berlebeck Eagle Sanctuary is a species conservation project that also cares for injured and orphaned birds of prey. Incidentally, I had already heard some of the aerial acrobats that I am now coming face to face with from a distance the day before. During my hike on the Hermannshöhen. It certainly won't be my last. But for today, my little excursion into a seemingly different world ends here. The Teutoburg Forest.

Anja Luckas

As head of her own media office, Anja Luckas has travelled a lot in your NRW - the journalist prefers to report on topics that combine travel and culture.

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