On the trail of the world-famous composerEncounters with Beethoven in Bonn

It's my birthday when I set off early in the morning on a little cultural trip to Bonn. A wonderful opportunity. There are a few surprises waiting for me in the Rhine metropolis, so I pack everything I need for a three-day trip in my suitcase. And then I'm ready to go.

When I arrive in the former German capital, I am greeted by none other than Ludwig van Beethoven. As the traffic lights turn green, the world-famous composer, whose 250th birthday is being celebrated this year, looks at me. This will not be my only encounter with the boy wonder from Bonngasse. Among other things, I am to learn later on my tour of the city that I actually have something in common with the genius. Because the great composer and free thinker was actually just as short as me. Exactly 1.60 metres.

However, the monument in honour of the composer in front of the old post office speaks a different language. The larger-than-life composer gazes proudly from his high pedestal at the people on the lively Münsterplatz. My tour guide knows more about him. As we walk along the banks of the Rhine, across the market and through the alleyways of Bonn's city centre, she repeatedly draws my attention to the man behind the genius. I get to know the "Bönnschen Jung", a little golden chap who stands here and there in the shop windows like a trademark. Alongside chocolate Beethoven coins, kissable mouths and chocolates bearing the composer's likeness. I really must try them later.

At the Remigiuskirche, the only remaining Gothic church in Bonn, I learn that Beethoven played the organ here at the age of ten and was given his first permanent position at court at the age of 13. Eleven of a total of 22 steles on the new Beethoven tour are spread across Bonn's pedestrian zone and tell the genius's entire life story with short videos. From his strict father, Beethoven's unfulfilled love for noble ladies and the later competition between Bonn and Vienna for the first monument.

At the end of my little tour of the city, I enter the birthplace of the world-famous composer, almost reverently. The rooms of the house in the narrow Bonngasse are small and the floorboards creak with every step. It's as if I'm suddenly part of history myself as I look at the more than 200-year-old handwritten sheet music and historical instruments together with numerous tourists and music enthusiasts and Beethoven's "Ode to Joy" accompanies me back out onto the street. A quick glance at the cloisters of Bonn Minster and I'm finally done for. What an idyllic place in the middle of the pedestrian zone. I stay for a moment and listen to the silence before walking back through the courtyard garden to the Ameron Hotel Königshof. The stylish design hotel right on the Rhine promenade was a favourite meeting place for the German political scene from the 1950s to the 1970s. All the portraits of chancellors in the foyer bear witness to this. And I know immediately why Adenauer and co. liked to come and go here or pose with their guests on the large terrace. It's the spectacular view of the Rhine and the Siebengebirge mountains. My next destination.

But before that, one more Beethoven. The speciality of the rustic traditional restaurant "Im Stiefel", just a few steps away from the composer's birthplace, is "Beethoven's Laiberl", his favourite dish. A must for me, of course. That's why I'm not served the hearty potato soup in a tureen, but in a loaf of bread. Good home cooking. And in the spirit of Beethoven. But now off to bed ...

I wonder what awaits me in the Siebengebirge? That remains to be seen. The next morning, I am greeted by hiking guide Uta Hildebrand, who shows me parts of the legendary landscape today. And the weather is still kind to us. Only a light drizzle accompanies us from Königswinter up to the 320 metre high Drachenfels. We save our strength and take the cog railway for the steep ascent. Slowly and noisily, the wood-panelled carriage with its red leatherette benches makes its way past Drachenburg Castle through the woods, still glistening in the early morning dew.

I've never been up Germany's "most climbed" mountain before. And Uta envies me a little "that you can experience this here for the first time". What does she mean? The question becomes redundant as soon as we step onto the plateau below the ruins. Wow! The view sweeps far across the Rhine valley, over the fields and meadows on the other side of the Rhine, to the island of Nonnenwerth and the Rolandsbogen. The poets and painters, who praised the romanticism of the Rhine here centuries ago, did not promise too much. Even if the view this morning is a little cloudy, one could almost say a little unreal.

Was Ludwig van Beethoven - there he is again - ever up here? Uta, who knows the Siebengebirge mountains inside out and can tell one or more stories about every elevation, doesn't know for sure. Nevertheless, we follow a section of the new Beethoven hiking trail back down into the valley. It leads past the wondrous rock where the dragon is said to have once surrendered to the fair maiden. "Wait Anja, I'll take a photo of you," says Uta, before we continue our hike, first steeply uphill and later downhill again. Uta warns me to be careful. I hold my ground and enjoy the unfamiliar silence. We are almost alone in the forest. We shorten our route a little and finally get back to the cosy old town of Königswinter through the Nachtigallental valley. Completely exhausted, but happy. And also a little proud. I don't even want to think about sore muscles at this point ... I'd rather indulge in a three-course meal at the Hotel-Restaurant Oliveto. On the menu today: marinated salmon and duck breast. Accompanied by a dry white wine, of course.

There is not enough time for a second visit to the museum today. But before the city bus takes me on to my last stop in Bad Godesberg, there's one item on the programme that I can't miss. Because I love museum shops! I always buy at least one pencil. I've already bought the right eraser at the Beethoven House. And I already have Beethoven coins and chocolates. All that's missing are a few postcards ... for an artistic birthday greeting to those at home from the Beethoven city of Bonn.