Art and Killepitsch
The Rhine metropolis of Düsseldorf has something to offer for all weather conditions: Modern museums, quirky architecture, nice designer shops, Rhenish cuisine and, of course, the longest bar in the world. As a native of the Lower Rhine, I have of course been to Düsseldorf several times, but my knowledge has so far been limited to the airport, Königsallee and concerts. So I'm all the more pleased to be able to get to know the city a little better.
Hopp On - Hopp Off
Armed with an umbrella, charm and a good mood, I start my short trip to Düsseldorf at Carlsplatz. The covered weekly market not only sells fruit and vegetables, but also lunch, fresh smoothies and pastries. Fortified with Stielmus - a vegetable made from beetroot stalks - and bratwurst, I spontaneously board a HoppOn HoppOff bus. I can understand it: The red double-decker buses are not everyone's cup of tea. But they're a great way to get an initial overview of a new city, especially when the weather isn't playing ball. I make myself comfortable on the upper deck, the rain pattering on the folding roof, the announcement ringing in my ears. Düsseldorf's old town, the Media Harbour, the Rhine Tower and the Rheinknie Bridge pass me by and for the first time I realise how green Düsseldorf actually is.
Altbier - a beer with a history
In the late afternoon, I make my way to Burgplatz. Because I'm going on safari! But I don't need binoculars to spot wild animals, I'm thirsty. Düsseldorf is famous for its top-fermented Altbier and of course there is more than just one brewery in the city. In fact, there are so many bars and pubs that Düsseldorf's old town is often referred to as the longest bar in the world. We start our Altbier Safari on the "Retematäng", as the people of Düsseldorf call their nightlife mile. The name dates back to Napoleon's time, who once renamed Ratinger Straße "Rue du Matin". I learn about bittering agents, fermentation methods and the tradition of Altbier and the atmosphere becomes more cheerful with every brewery. The tour ends at Uerige, one of Düsseldorf's oldest breweries, where I stay for dinner.
"You haven't been to Düsseldorf if you haven't tried a Killepitsch," they say, and I'm not going to say no to that. I have a little nightcap in the form of a herbal schnapps right by the window of "Et Kabüffke" before heading back to the hotel.
Flying high
It's a quiet morning at the 25 Hours Hotel Das Tour, and for a brief moment a few rays of sunshine even make their way onto my bed. The view at breakfast couldn't be better: You can see all of Düsseldorf from the restaurant on the 16th floor. The atmosphere is so cosy that you could easily spend the whole morning here. But I still have a lot to do today and set off on the tram to the south of Düsseldorf.
I had already noticed the extraordinary Gehry buildings in the Media Harbour from the bus yesterday: No line seems to be straight here and the centre building in particular, with its mirrored façade, is like a playground for me and my camera. I really like the harbour with its mix of old brick and modern architecture.
It's only a ten-minute walk from here to the Rhine Tower. I've been up here before as a child and still remember how I used to just lie down completely on the slanted windows of the restaurant to look down. Let's see if I still have that basic confidence today. In any case, the lift is already roaring upwards and my ears are ringing. The viewing platform is 168 metres up, with a 360-degree view over Düsseldorf and the surrounding area. On a clear day, you can even see Cologne Cathedral from here - but don't say that too loudly! I watch the ships on the Rhine for a while and discover my next destination from up here.
Classical modernism and the present
A stone's throw away through a few puddles is the K21 in the Ständehaus, which is idyllically situated in a small park with a pond. The rooms of the K21 house contemporary art by changing artists. Around 20 minutes away in the historic city centre is the K20, the second home of the North Rhine-Westphalian art collection. As the name suggests, it houses works from the 20th century. Gerhard Richter, Man Ray, Max Ernst, Marc Rothko, Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Helen Frankenthaler and Carmen Herrera are just a few of the names from the extensive collection. I'm a big fan of museums that mix artists and styles in a colourful way and put them in a new context - I find nothing more inspiring.
After a while, my stomach starts to rumble and I head back to Schlossplatz: thanks to the chef's persuasiveness, I dare to try a vegan meatball with carrot and potato vegetables and rocket oil at Restaurant Schwan. And it's exactly what I need after such a long day: Feel-good food for the soul. And I'd love to have a litre of this sensationally nutty rocket oil to take away with me!
Creative browsing
On my last morning, I'm drawn to the hotel's neighbourhood. Düsseldorf's creative Flingern district is known for its cosy cafés and cool shops away from the big chain stores. After a quick detour to Bäckerei Bulle for an apple and cinnamon bun, I let myself drift along the famous Ackerstraße and find one shop more beautiful than the next. In the "Aest. Conceptstore", which mainly stocks young brands from Copenhagen and Paris, I have a quick chat with owner Katharina Meerkamp, who gives me a few great tips. A shop just for chic garden items? There's one just a few doors down at "The Golden Rabbit". I browse through the colourful stationery at "Rikiki" for a while before taking a break for coffee and cake at "Café Hüftgold". The name says it all. But I have to leave a little room in my stomach because I want to eat my way through Japan today.
Delicacies from afar
"Little Tokyo", the third largest Japanese community in Europe, is located around Immermannstraße. In addition to countless Japanese restaurants, the area is teeming with shops specialising in Japanese porcelain, bookshops for manga comics and tea shops. I join the "Sushi, Sake and Japanese Lifestyle" tour, where I learn a lot about the history of the Japanese in Düsseldorf and their culture. We try melon pan, onigiri and, of course, Japanese rice wine. We visit the famous Hotel Nikko and a Japanese supermarket. For about two hours, I feel like I've been transported to the other side of the world and yet I'm still in the centre of Düsseldorf. In the meantime, the sun has finally come out and I stroll along the Rhine promenade one last time and bite into a mochi, a sweet from the Japanese supermarket. Japan is on the Rhine, at least in Düsseldorf.
Whether it's a city break, a long-distance journey or a short trip - Nina Hüpen-Bestendonk loves taking photos. The Lower Rhine native uses one of her 30 cameras for this. On her online blog Smaracuja she captures her adventures in pictures, texts and small illustrations.
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